Технология укладки тротуарной плитки на отсев своими руками: Укладка тротуарной плитки на отсев

Укладка тротуарной плитки на отсев. Как уложить на основание из отсева

Укладка тротуарной плитки на такую «подушку» в основном связана с наличием большого фронта работ, а также экономией средств. Нельзя сказать, что такая экономия сильно сказывается на качестве покрытия, но укладка на традиционное основание вызывает больше доверия. Почему возникает вопрос выбора между гарцовочной смесью и отсевом и как поступить, если выбор все-таки пал на второй вариант?

Все мы иногда стараемся сократить расходы на строительстве, так как само по себе это дело требует больших вложений. А как быть если фронт работ настолько велик, что затраты на стройматериалы исчисляются десятками или сотнями тысяч единиц валюты? Конечно же мы будем искать варианты экономии, но так, чтоб качество сильно не страдало.

В случае с тротуарной плиткой, сэкономить с небольшими потерями качества можно на основании тротуарной плитки. Казалось бы, как можно экономить на основании, если это практически самое основное в укладке? Чтоб понять это, давайте разберемся, что нужно нам для получения качественного основания. Цемент и песок — это составляющие качественного основания. Если площадь работ составляет тысячу, а то и больше квадратных метров, то материалов на такую площадь потребуется немало. А цена на них увеличивается чуть ли не каждый месяц.

Вот в таких случаях на помощь и приходит отсев. Многие заказчики пугаются когда им предлагают укладывать плитку на отсев, боясь, что плитка начнет со временем проваливаться. Но для таких людей есть одна новость — таким образом уложена плитка на огромном количестве городских объектов. Кроме того, для полной победы можно им сказать, что плитку еще укладывают на чистый песок и при этом она нормально «себя чувствует». Но все это может выглядеть так красиво, только в том случае, если процесс подготовки основания будет правильным.

Недостатки отсева

Основная проблема отсева это то, что при намокании он превращается в «кашу». Но как избежать этого? Поэтому если на только уложенную плитку, прольется сильный дождь, а потом заедет машина, то скорее всего на поверхности образуются ямы. И это не из-за того, что, возможно, плохо было утрамбовано основание. Как избежать такого? Мы же не можем закрыть огромную площадь от дождя, чтоб уберечь от этой неприятности. Ответ оказывается очень прост и начнем мы с самого начала.

Первое, что необходимо сделать, это качественно утрамбовывать основание. Для трамбовки недостаточно ручных трамбовок! Нужно использовать вибротрамбовку или строительную спецтехнику. Тротуарная плитка должна быть закреплена со всех сторон и основание тогда не будет расползаться во время трамбования. После того, как плитка уже будет уложена не нужно торопиться и запускать слишком тяжелый автотранспорт на площадь, тем более если прошел дождь и вода достигла основания.

При соблюдении этих несложных советов, отсев, как основание, прослужит Вам долгие годы. О преимуществах укладки тротуарной плитки на отсев можно не говорить, о нем мы сказали в начале статьи — это цена!

90000 How to Lay a Patio | Laying a Patio on Sand or Soil for Beginners 90001 90002 With summer approaching, make sure you have your garden patio ready. Here’s how to lay a patio for beginners in 6 easy steps. 90003 90004 90005 Dig 150mm into your patio area 90006 90005 Lay a compacted sub-base of 100mm 90006 90005 Cover the area with 40mm of concrete mix 90006 90005 Lay paving slabs 15mm into the concrete with a 10-15mm gap 90006 90005 Leave to set for at least 24 hours 90006 90005 Fill the gaps between the paving slabs with concrete mix 90006 90017 90002 90019 What tools do I need? 90020 90003 90022 90005 Trowel 90006 90005 Rake 90006 90005 Wheelbarrow 90006 90005 Shovel 90006 90005 Rubber mallet 90006 90005 Spirit level 90006 90005 Tape measure 90006 90005 Cement mixer (optional) 90006 90005 String line and pegs (optional) 90006 90041 90002 90019 What materials do I need? 90020 90003 90046 QUICK TIP: WHAT SAND SHOULD I USE FOR LAYING A PATIO? 90047 90002 Wondering which type of sand to put with cement for your concrete mix? To get the best results, use sharp sand.It’s perfect for patios and gardens, and will prevent moles or rats from tunnelling underneath the paving slabs. 90003 90046 STEP BY STEP GUIDE TO LAYING A PATIO 90047 90002 90019 Prepping the area 90020 90003 90002 Before even thinking of 90019 laying paving slabs 90020, you need to prepare your patio area. If you’re upgrading paving slabs that are already in place, dig these up before beginning. Dig a depth of around 150mm across the whole area, making sure the soil is evenly compacted.Then tip in the sub-base, raking it into a consistent depth of 100mm. Make sure it’s smooth, flat and firm. 90003 90002 90019 Creating concrete for laying your patio 90020 90003 90002 Prepare a concrete mix of three parts sand and one part cement, adding water to create a doughy consistency. You can use a cement mixer, or a large tub or bucket. To check the mix is ​​thick enough, pick some up and mould into a ball. When you let go, it should retain its shape without oozing water or falling apart.You’ll need to make enough concrete to make an even 40mm layer in the patio bed. 90003 90002 90019 Laying patio slabs 90020 90003 90002 Before you can start 90019 laying patio slabs 90020, you need to dampen them so they do not dry out your concrete too quickly. Then, lower your first paving slab into position. Lay it into the concrete mix and gently tap it with a rubber mallet so it’s fixed in place. Ideally it wants to sit 15mm in the mortar. Repeat this process, leaving a 10-15mm gap between each paving slab, until your patio is covered.Once you’ve laid your patio, spray the whole area with water until it’s completely saturated, and leave it to set for at least 24 hours. 90003 90002 90019 Finishing touches 90020 90003 90002 The final part of 90019 laying a patio 90020 is applying the finishing touches. Use a trowel to fill the gaps between your paving slabs with Marshalls Weatherpoint 365, ensuring there’s no residue on the slabs ‘surface. Then, you might want to create a decorative border by digging a gutter around the perimeter, and filling it with some sea washed aggregate or black polished pebbles.90003 90002 90003 90002 For more information on laying block paving, check out our video guide on how to lay patio slabs below: 90003 90086 90087 90002 90003 90090 Explore The Full Garden Patio Range Today 90091 Shop Now .90000 How to easily lay a patio and paving slabs 90001 90002 90003 On the face of it, laying a patio can look like a fairly simple task but this task can be quite arduous and labour intensive. However it can be a very rewarding project, especially when you have completed it to a high standard. 90004 90005 90002 There are a few things that you will need to consider when looking to lay your own patio; read on for a ‘how to’ guide that will help you with what you need to know and a step-by-step guide that can turn that garden space into your garden bliss! 90005 90008 90009 Step-by-step guide 90010 90011 Step 1: On paper 90012 90002 After you have decided where to lay your patio, you will need to draw a plan of the area in which you include all of the measurements and dimensions for surrounding landmarks and the proposed patio area.90005 90002 Anything that is in the direct vicinity of the patio must be marked on the graph paper and make sure it is to scale, of course! If there are any landmarks around the area that could affect the paving then they should be noted as this could affect the levelling of the patio. 90005 90002 If you wanted to lay the patio over two levels then you will need to mark the location of this in reference to the relevant walling and steps. You may also have an idea of ​​how you want to design your patio.90005 90002 Once everything is planned to a tee, you might want to ensure that you have all the right tools for the job. 90005 90011 Step 2: Preparing the site 90012 90002 You will need to start by laying down pegs and string to mark out the intended area to build your patio. You will then start to dig an area to a depth of around 15cm in which you will need to remove any previous turf or plants or even current paving that you have in place. 90005 90002 After digging this area, use a spirit level to check the area for weak spots in the soil.Big clue for this would be if there are footprints left in the soil. You should consider laying down more soil to ‘compact in’ to level this area out so that you do not have a sinking patio! 90005 90002 You will then need to lay some sub-material or ‘hardcore’ down which will provide the foundation for your patio. This material is available from all good builders ‘merchants. You will need to ensure that you level the hardcore with a plate compactor to around a depth between 5-8cm. 90005 90011 Step 3: Preparing the paving slabs 90012 90002 The laying of the paving slabs would not be considered tricky, but the handling and the cutting may be a different story.Depending on the design of your patio, there will be differing shapes or styles of paving that would vary in difficulty to cut and design. If you are looking to design and cut you own paving then I would suggest buying a disc grinder and following the correct safety protocol when using such equipment. If there is not a lot of cutting of the paving to be done then a hammer and chisel would suffice. 90005 90011 Step 4: Getting to work with laying the bedding mortar 90012 90002 Before laying the paving down you should put down a layer of bedding mortar that can act as a land stabiliser and this can actually hinder weed growth.90005 90002 The bedding mortar should consist of five parts building sand to one part cement which will act as the bed on which to lay your paving stones. This layer should be at the depth of around 5cm on top of your hardcore. 90005 90002 90003 Some things to consider: 90004 90005 90043 90044 If the patio is being laid next to a wall then you should ensure that patio is 15cm below the damp proof wall so that rain does not bounce off and hit the wall. 90045 90044 Patio drainage and how important it is to consider this for run off areas.90045 90044 Remember that shady or damp areas of the patio may start to accumulate algae, mould and green slime which will need to be treated with a patio cleaner. 90045 90050 90011 Step 5: Laying the paving 90012 90002 After cutting your designed paving slabs, you should ensure that the first piece you lay down is perfectly aligned with the string guideline. Use blocks of wood and a hammer / mallet to align and lay your paving slabs in line. 90005 90002 Make sure you leave a gap of 1cm for joint lines.Perhaps plywood would be a good idea to correctly keep this space between your slabs. Using a spirit level make sure that your patio is level. Also, if you are laying the patio right next to the house then try and incorporate a gentle slope away from the house. 90005 90011 Step 6: Wait 24 hours 90012 90002 90003 Do not 90004 step on the paving stones for 24 hours after laying down the patio. 90005 90002 What you will need to do then is to fill in the gaps between the paving slabs. You can fill these gaps in with dry sand or alternatively you can use patio grout which would be a similar functioning product to the grout you would use on your kitchen or bathroom tiles.Again you should make sure that all of the joints are smoothed over and finished in a neat fashion. 90005 .90000 Cutting Paving Slabs | How to Cut Paving Slabs & Block Paving 90001 90002 If you’re renovating your garden and creating a patio or paved area, it’s likely that you’ll need to cut your slabs to fit your design. Cutting paving slabs by hand is easy and there are several ways to do it. In this blog post we share the steps for the 3 best ways to cut paving slabs: 90003 90002 1. Cutting paving slabs with a chisel and hammer 90003 90002 2. Cutting paving slabs with a hand-held saw 90003 90002 3.Cutting paving slabs with block and slab splitters 90003 90002 And, if you’re looking to create curves with your paving we have some tips for cutting curved slabs too. 90003 90002 ————————— 90003 90002 Cutting paving slabs with a chisel and hammer is a time-honoured way of getting the job done. It’s arguably the simplest and most fuss-free method, and requires the fewest tools. It’s also one of the safest techniques when it comes to cutting garden paving — so if you’re not confident using power tools, this might be the best option for you.90003 90002 90017 What tools do I need? 90018 90003 90020 90021 Pitching chisel or bolster chisel 90022 90021 Lump hammer 90022 90021 Safety glasses 90022 90021 Protective gloves 90022 90021 Measuring tape 90022 90021 Pencil or chalk 90022 90033 90002 90017 Step 1 — Measure the paver length 90018 90037 Your first step is to measure out the space you want to fill with your paver and then use chalk or pencil to clearly mark the required size on your slab.Use a spirit level for straight lines and a neat finish. 90003 90002 90017 Step 2 — Cut the paver 90018 90003 90002 Grab your hammer and chisel to cut the pavers. Hold the chisel just outside of the line you’ve drawn on the slab and tap gently but firmly with the hammer until the brick splits. Use the chisel to knock off any sharp, uneven edges and help you create a neat finish. 90003 90002 90017 Step 3 — Slot in the paver 90018 90003 90002 When you’re happy with the straight, even edges to your newly sized paver, slot it into its allotted space and ta [it with a rubber hammer to make sure it’s firmly in place.90003 90002 Whether you’re laying your patio on concrete or any other material, a circular saw will help you get the job done in no time. But be sure to use a diamond masonry blade, rather than the standard blade used for cutting wood, which would not be strong enough to saw through paving slabs. 90003 90002 90017 What tools do I need? 90018 90003 90020 90021 Skill saw or Stihl saw (must be a diamond-tipped blade) 90022 90021 Work stand with adjustable sides 90022 90021 Rubber hammer 90022 90021 Safety glasses 90022 90021 Protective gloves 90022 90021 Measuring tape 90022 90021 Pencil or chalk 90022 90033 90002 90017 What materials do I need? 90018 90003 90002 90017 Step 1 — Set up your work stand 90018 90037 Set up your work stand and ensure the sides are adjusted to the length of the paver you’ll be working with.90003 90002 90017 Step 2 — Measure the paver length 90018 90037 Using a tape measure, take the measurements of the space where you’ll need to install the paver and then, with chalk or pencil, mark up lines on the paving slab where it needs to be cut. 90003 90002 Top tip: Dip the paver in a little water to reduce dust levels — it will ensure greater accuracy when you’re cutting the paver. 90003 90002 90017 Step 3 — Cut the paver with the saw 90018 90003 90002 Secure the paving slab in the work stand and cut through it with the saw, using your chalk or pencil lines as a guide.Depending on its thickness, you might have to lift the blade and only cut through a little of the paver, then turn it over and repeat. 90003 90002 Use your judgement as to whether you’ll need to lower the blade more than once and simply keep lowering and cutting until you have a clean break. 90003 90002 90017 Step 4 — Slot in the paver 90018 90003 90002 Lay the paver in the space it’s required and tap it firmly in place with a rubber hammer. 90003 90002 Also known as a guillotine or block cutter, the block and slab splitter is quicker than a saw and produces lest dust.This means it’s often the preferred method of getting the job done. However, if you’re hiring one to use yourself, get in plenty of practice as it requires a level of skill. 90003 90002 90017 What tools do I need? 90018 90003 90020 90021 Block splitter 90022 90021 Rubber hammer 90022 90021 Safety glasses 90022 90021 Protective gloves 90022 90021 Measuring tape 90022 90021 Pencil or chalk 90022 90033 90002 90017 Step 1 — Set up the block splitter 90018 90037 Choose a location where the ground is level and stable to set up your block splitter.Make sure you have plenty of room around you. 90003 90002 90017 Step 2 — Measure the paver length 90018 90037 Use a tape measure to assess the size of the space where you’ll need to install the paver. Using chalk or pencil, mark lines on the slab where it needs to be cut. 90003 90002 90017 Step 3 — Cut the paver 90018 90037 Raise the handle of the splitter and insert your paving block, positioning it so that the blade hits the block at the right position. Lower the handle until the blade has sliced ​​right through the brick.90003 90002 90017 Step 4 — Lay in place 90018 90037 As with the other methods, once the paver is cut it’s time to place it in the space and tap it firmly with a rubber hammer until it’s level. 90003 90002 Using any of the three methods above, cutting paving slabs is a relatively easy way to achieve a clean, straight garden paving design. It becomes a little trickier if you’re after a curved effect. 90003 90002 A curved edge or circle can bring a new dimension to your outdoor space, but you’ll need to cut your pavers at an angle to get the look.While you can use a chisel and mallet to do this, you may find you get a more precise cut with power tools. 90003 90002 90148 Using a circular saw. 90149 Mark up the paver as outlined in all the above methods and set it up on supports, ensuring the marked-up area is over the space between the stands. 90003 90002 Use a masonry blade to cut along your marked line — it may take a couple of attempts depending on the thickness of the brick. Practice is needed to create the perfect curve but if you find your cutting leaves burrs or uneven edging, you can file it down with a coarse metal file or use a grinding wheel to grind it off.This should then give you curved pavers that fit in perfectly with your garden paving design. 90003 90002 Prefer to have your paving cut and installed by an expert? Get in touch today or click here to find your nearest Marshalls-accredited installer. 90003 90155 Explore The Full Garden Patio Range Today 90156 Shop Now .