Как утеплить крышу дома изнутри своими руками: Технология правильного утепления крыши частного дома

как правильно утеплить кровлю дома своими руками, чем обшить внутри готовую крышу

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Многие владельцы домов задаются вопросом, проводить ли утепление крыши дома изнутри своими руками. У утепленной крыши есть несколько преимуществ перед холодной. В этой статье мы поговорим о том, как и чем обшить крышу внутри, и что для этого потребуется.

Преимущества утепленной кровли:

1. Благодаря утеплению, можно значительно сократить теплопотери, вплоть до 15 % от общего количества потерь. Ввиду периодического удорожания электроэнергии и постоянного стремления к уменьшению объемов его использования, это решение будет как нельзя кстати.
2. После утепления в доме появится дополнительная жилая площадь, расположенная под крышей, которая может быть использована для своих нужд.

Утепление кровли изнутри может выполняться, когда по какой-либо причине хозяева приняли такое решение в процессе ее эксплуатации.

Стоит отметить, что добиться качественного утепления, сохранить тепло и комфорт в доме, а также продлить срок службы кровли можно, если использовать материалы только высокого качества.

Если согласно проекту, утепление предусмотрено изначально, то лучше всего его выполнить снаружи, еще до того, как будет уложен кровельный материал. Как правило, без этого не обойтись, если вы решили построить дом в местности с неблагоприятными погодными условиями.

Что представляет собой кровельный пирог крыши дома

Кровельный пирог – это слоеная конструкция, в которую входят элементы утепления кровли. В основе такой конструкции находится система стропил, которая удерживает остальные элементы. В разрезе у такого пирога есть четкая последовательность элементов, первым из которых является кровельный материал.

Кровельный пирог состоит из таких слоев:

• кровельное покрытие;
• обрешетка или сплошное покрытие;
• контробрешетка для образования вентиляционного зазора;
• гидроизоляция;
• теплоизоляция;
• пароизоляция;
• обрешетка под внутреннюю обшивку;
• внутренняя обшивка.

Готовая конструкция уменьшит теплопотери в зимнее время, а в летнее – избавит от перегрева пространства под кровлей. Также она не даст осадкам попасть на теплоизоляцию извне, а парам воды – проникнуть с внутренней стороны помещения.

Какие материалы потребуются для кровельного пирога

То, насколько эффективным будет утепление крыши изнутри, зависит не только от теплоизоляционного материала, но и гидро- и пароизоляции. Все прочие компоненты пирога кровли существенного влияния не оказывают.

Стоит отметить, что кровельная конструкция постоянно подвергается таким видам нагрузок:

• масса всей кровли – постоянный фактор;
• атмосферные осадки и способ эксплуатации крыши;
• ветровая нагрузка;
• перепады температур;
• ультрафиолетовое излучение;
• химические реагенты, растворенные в воздухе;
• парусность кровли и сопротивление проходящим сквозь чердак потокам воздуха;
• влажность и конденсат, накапливающийся внутри чердака.

Функции гидроизоляционных и пароизоляционных материалов

Назначение гидроизоляции заключается в следующем:

1. Предотвратить проникновение влаги на утеплитель извне.
2. Способствовать выведению из утеплителя лишней влаги, которая проникла из помещения.

Для гидроизоляции применяют специальные пленочные и мембранные материалы. Если речь идет о гидроизоляционной пленке, то она представляет собой трехслойный материал с микроперфорацией, центральным слоем которого является сетка из полипропилена, ламинированная с обеих сторон полиэтиленом.

Мембраны – это нетканые материалы, в которых гидро- и пароизоляцию обеспечивает центральный слой, а внешние – предназначены для придания прочности. Подобные материалы принято называть супердиффузионными. Преимущества мембран перед пленками заключается в том, что они лучше проницаемы для пара, следовательно, перед укладкой не требуется создание воздушной прослойки.

Если же перед утеплением крыши внутри монтируется гидроизоляционная пленка, ее следует укладывать с некоторым зазором, чтобы излишки пара могли свободно выводиться. Без такого отступа утепляющий материал быстро начнет намокать и перестанет выполнять свои прямые функции. Долговечность мембран существенно больше, чем пленок.

Что касается пароизоляционных материалов, то их главная функция заключается в создании барьера для влажного воздуха изнутри помещения, чтобы он не попадал в утеплитель. Как правило, для этого применяют паронепроницаемую пленку.

Разновидности и характеристики материалов для утепления своими руками

Перед тем, как утеплить готовую крышу, следует определиться с материалом для внутренних работ.

Выбор следует делать с учетом следующих характеристик:

1. Плотность. Данный показатель напрямую влияет на качество теплопередачи материала. Чем ниже плотность, тем выше пористость. По мере повышения пористости снижается теплопроводность материала, а значит – возрастают его теплоизоляционные свойства.
2. Теплопередача. Данный показатель влияет не только степень пористости, но и температуру, и уровень влажности материала. При росте этих показателей теплопередача тоже повышается.
3. Способность поглощать влагу. Чтобы утеплитель не впитывал и не удерживал влагу между волокнами, его обрабатывают специальными гидрофобными веществами. В частности, наличие такой обработки следует уточнять при закупке минеральной и стекловаты.
4. Горючесть.
5. Способность противостоять низким температурам.
6. Устойчивость к химическим веществам.
7. Экологичность.

Исходя из указанных характеристик, оптимальными материалами для утепления металлической крыши изнутри являются такие разновидности:

1. Минеральная и стекловата. Приобрести такие материалы можно как в виде отдельных плит, так и в рулонах. В плане устойчивости к возгоранию минеральная вата несколько превосходит стекловату.
2. Пенопласт или пенополистирол. Выпускается плитами или экструдированными изделиями. Такой материал достаточно легко воспламеняется и выделяет токсичные вещества при горении. Поэтому нуждается в дополнительной огнезащите.
3. Пенополиуретан. Данный материал может быть представлен в виде панелей или жидких составов. Последние наносят на поверхность кровли с помощью специального оборудования, поэтому занимаются такими работами специализированные бригады строителей.

Методика утепления крыши изнутри — как утеплить правильно

Единого подхода к процессу утепления кровли просто не может быть, поскольку в каждом случае будут присутствовать свои тонкости. Все зависит не только от конфигурации крыши, но и от используемого кровельного покрытия. В частности, если для перекрытия используется мягкая кровля, утеплять крышу следует снаружи, еще до укладки материала. Кроме того, технология фиксации утеплителя в случае с плоскими и складными кровлями также будет разниться. Вот почему очень важно знать, как правильно утеплить крышу изнутри в том или ином случае.

Вне зависимости от наличия утеплителя, укладка гидроизолирующего покрытия поверх стропильной системы является обязательным условием при сооружении скатной крыши. Чтобы с внутренней стороны кровельного материала не скапливался конденсат, необходимо предусмотреть вентиляционный зазор. Читайте также: «Как утеплить крышу дома изнутри – выбор материала и инструкция по монтажу».

В случае если гидроизоляционная пленка все-таки не была уложена предварительно, утепление необходимо начинать именно с ее крепления. Обратите внимание, что вентиляционный зазор должен быть равен как минимум 2 см. Как вариант, к стропилам или обрешетке можно прибить дополнительные рейки.

Супердиффузионная мембрана будет наилучшим выбором, поскольку отпадет необходимость в обустройстве дополнительного зазора между ней и утеплителем.

Чтобы обеспечить надежное утепление, материал закрепляется в несколько слоев – как минимум два. В таком случае можно избежать сквозных швов между кусками материала. Толщина утепляющего слоя при этом составит около 15-20 см. В случае, если толщина стропильных ног меньше этого значения, то утеплитель монтируется еще и поверх стропил. В таком случае обрешетка для внутренней отделки будет прижимать и утепляющий материал, и пароизоляционный.

На плоскую крышу закреплять утеплитель будет сложнее. Поскольку никакой дополнительной опоры для утеплителя нет, к потолку нужно прибить несколько брусков таким образом, чтобы расстояние между ними было меньше ширины утепляющего материала, а высота была равна его толщине.

Далее рулонный материал или специальные плиты плотно вставляют между этими брусками. Кроме того, их можно прикрепить мастиками или специальным клеем. На следующем этапе утепляющий слой и пароизоляционную пленку фиксируют обрешеткой для внутреннего отделочного материала.

Безусловно, качественно утепленная крыша позволит не только сэкономить средства на обогрев и сохранить как можно больше тепла, но и сделать пребывание в доме уютным и комфортным. Правда, теплоизоляционные материалы должны быть высокого качества, чтобы в скором времени не пришлось производить их замену и тратить дополнительные средства. 

технология работ и советы от эксперта

Издавна на Руси проблем с утеплением крыши не возникало вовсе: вязалась солома или сушился тростник, и все – крыша дома была надежно защищена и от дождя, и от холода. Но современные покрытия совершенно не обладают теплоизолирующими свойствами, и при всем развитии прогресса через такую кровлю утекает до 30% всего тепла.

Поэтому, если вы не хотите греть атмосферу, подробно изучите утепление крыши изнутри – в этой статье мы раскроем все моменты!

Условно утепление крыши в строительном мире делят на мансардное, когда утепляются скаты крыши, и чердачное, когда теплоизолируется перекрытие.

Как это? Можно сказать, что мансарды тоже имеют свой чердак – это вентиляционный зазор между внутренним утеплителем и уложенным кровельным покрытием. Дело в том, что тепло по всем законам физики всегда поднимается вверх и ищет свой выход в атмосферу. Оно проходит и через утеплитель, и сквозь пароизоляцию, причем вместе с водяными парами. И тут в карнизном отвесе подтягивается наружный воздух, который проходит до конька и попутно подхватывает с собой и пары, и лишнее тепло. Через аэраторы или тот же конек все это благополучно выводится и не доставляет никаких проблем.

Т.е. у обычной, не используемой крыши чердак занимает все место от конька до чердачного перекрытия, а у мансарды чердак – это всего лишь небольшое пространство под скатами между утеплителем и кровельным покрытием. И в утеплении обоих вид крыши — свой подход, который мы сейчас и изучим.

Если крыша у вас холодная, значит теплоизолирующий слой должен находиться не на скатах, а на полу чердачного помещения. Именно здесь он останавливает тепловой поток, идущий снизу, и не дает холоду с крыши спуститься в нижнее жилое помещение. В итоге температура на чердаке держится в пределах +1-2 градусов, кровельный материал не подогревается. По сути, такой чердак служит необходимой воздушной прослойкой между жилыми комнатами дома и тонким перекрытием крыши.

Для чердачного перекрытия подходят все рулонные, плитные и сыпучие утеплители. Т.к. перекрытие уклона не имеет, особого требования к используемым теплоизоляционным материалом у него нет: ничего осыпаться и оголяться не будет.

Обратите внимание на то, чтобы после утепления крыши в ней оставалась правильно организованная вентиляция: в наличии должны быть слуховые окна, находящиеся напротив друг друга, вентиляционные коньки и аэраторы, а в карнизах – круглосуточный доступ для подсоса наружного воздуха. В итоге температура в нежилом чердачном помещении должна быть максимально близка к уличной, а от нее уже отделяет жилое помещение ниже – грамотная теплоизоляция перекрытия.

Теперь давайте подробнее разберемся с утеплением холодной крыши.

Утепление минватой

При утеплении пола чердака минеральной ватой, в первую очередь обратите внимание на расстояние между рейками или лагами – оно должно быть немного меньше, чем рулон или мат утеплителя.

Обычно теплоизоляция внутреннего пространства крыши осложнена неровной поверхностью пола чердака, перепадами его высоты, большим количеством реек и брусков, не говоря уже о вентиляционных трубах и электропроводке:

Утепление эковатой

Если вы хотите, чтобы дом дышал, а пар легко выходил вверх, тогда утепляйте чердачное перекрытие современной эковатой:

Утепление задувной ватой

В последнее время блоуинга — утепления крыши задувной ватой становится все более популярным. Применяется здесь японский «утеплитель» Эсбро-Вул II, который не выделяет пыли, а потому не создает проблем. А сам метод блоуинг на деле достаточно прост:

• Шаг 1. Ставим на пол вертикальную линейку и отмечаем необходимую высоту напыления минеральной ваты.
• Шаг 2. Наносим утеплитель равномерным слоем до нужного уровня.
• Шаг 3. Укладываем утеплитель настолько плотно, чтобы на один кубический метр приходилось его 25 кг веса.

Заметим, что такого типа утепления в Японии – самое популярное, и уже нашло в России немало сторонников.

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Half-inch drywall is usually sufficient, but check with local building officials before installing. 90005 90004 If your attic has enough insulation and proper air sealing, and your home still feels drafty and cold in the winter or too warm in the summer, chances are you need to add insulation to the exterior walls.This is more expensive and usually requires a contractor, but it may be worth the cost-especially if you live in a very cold climate. If you replace the exterior siding on your home, consider adding insulation at the same time. 90005 90004 In an existing home, consider using blow-in insulation, which, when installed with the dense pack technique, will provide significant air sealing. It can be added to exterior walls without much disturbance to finished areas of your home. If you’re remodeling and your wall cavities will be open, look into two-part spray foam or wet spray cellulose insulation.If your wall cavities are not going to be open, you could consider injectable spray foam insulation. If you’ll be doing the work yourself, blanket (batt and roll) insulation, while not capable of providing an air seal as dense pack and two-part spray foam will, is an affordable option. 90005 90004 In a new home, first see our information about insulating a new home, which will help you choose from among the many types of insulation on the market. If you’re in the design phase of planning your new home, consider structural insulated panels, insulating concrete forms, and insulated concrete blocks.These materials literally have insulation built in, and houses built using these products often have superior insulating qualities and minimal thermal bridging. 90005 90004 If you’re building a traditional framed house, consider using advanced wall framing techniques. These techniques improve the whole-wall R-value by reducing thermal bridging and maximizing the insulated wall area. 90005 90004 Also consider using insulating wall sheathing rather than wood sheathing products, as they provide superior R-value.Foam sheathing: 90005 90056 90057 90004 Provides a continuous layer of insulation, which reduces thermal bridging through wood studs, saving energy and improving comfort. 90005 90060 90057 90004 Is easier to cut and install than heavier sheathing products. 90005 90060 90057 90004 Protects against condensation on the inside wall by keeping the interior of the wall warmer. 90005 90060 90057 90004 Usually costs less than plywood or oriented strand board (OSB). 90005 90060 90073 90004 If you replace plywood or OSB with foam sheathing, your walls will require bracing or other structural reinforcement.90005 90004 90002 Insulating Floors Above Unheated Garages 90003 90005 90004 When insulating floors above unconditioned garages, first seal all possible sources of air leakage. This strategy has the added benefit of minimizing the danger of contaminants (from car exhaust, paint, solvents, gardening supplies, etc.) In the garage migrating into the conditioned space. Also install an air barrier to prevent cold air in the garage from «short circuiting» the insulation underneath the subfloor. 90005 90004 In addition to reducing heating costs, a properly insulated foundation will keep below-grade rooms more comfortable and prevent moisture problems, insect infestation, and radon infiltration.In new construction, consider construction techniques that provide both foundation structure and insulation, such as insulating concrete forms and insulating concrete blocks. 90005 90004 During the construction process, many builders insulate the outside of foundation walls before backfilling. This strategy is possible but impractical and disruptive for existing homes. Optimal foundation insulation materials and placement vary by climate, so consult a local insulation professional if you’re planning a new home.90005 90004 A properly insulated basement can save you money on heating and provide a dry, comfortable living space. In most cases, a basement with insulation installed on its exterior walls should be considered a conditioned space. Even in a house with an unconditioned basement, the basement is more connected to other living spaces than to the outside, which makes basement wall insulation preferable to ceiling insulation.90005 90004 In new construction, adding insulation on the exterior of the basement walls will do the following: 90005 90056 90057 90004 Minimize thermal bridging and reduce heat loss through the foundation 90005 90060 90057 90004 Protect the damp-proof coating from damage during backfilling 90005 90060 90057 90004 Provide some protection against moisture intrusion 90005 90060 90057 90004 Make the foundation part of the thermal mass of the conditioned space, thereby reducing interior temperature swings 90005 90060 90057 90004 Reduce the potential for condensation on surfaces in the basement 90005 90060 90057 90004 Conserve room area, relative to installing insulation on the interior.90005 90060 90073 90004 In an existing home, adding insulation to the exterior of the basement walls is impractical. Interior basement wall insulation has the following advantages: 90005 90056 90057 90004 It is much less expensive to install than exterior insulation for existing buildings. 90005 90060 90057 90004 Almost any insulation type can be used. 90005 90060 90057 90004 It eliminates the threat of insect infestation. 90005 90060 90073 90004 Here are a few things to consider when installing interior basement wall insulation: 90005 90056 90057 Many insulation types require a fire-rated covering because they release toxic gases when ignited.90060 90057 Interior insulation reduces usable interior space by a few inches. 90060 90057 It does not protect the damp-proof coating like exterior insulation does. 90060 90057 If perimeter drainage is poor, the insulation may become saturated by moisture weeping through foundation walls. 90060 90057 Superior air-sealing details and vapor diffusion retarders are important for adequate performance. 90060 90073 90004 To determine appropriate R-values ​​for basement walls in your area, use these R-value recommendations.Then choose the type of insulation: 90005 90056 90057 Blanket (batt and roll) insulation 90060 90057 Insulating concrete blocks (new construction) 90060 90057 Foam board insulation 90060 90057 Insulating concrete forms (new construction) 90060 90057 Loose-fill insulation 90060 90057 Sprayed foam insulation (good choice for finished basements). 90060 90073 90004 Moisture control is particularly important for basements, because they are notorious for problems with water intrusion, humidity, and mold.90005 90004 How you insulate a crawlspace depends on whether it’s ventilated or unventilated. Most building codes require vents to aid in removing moisture from the crawlspace. However, many building professionals now recognize that building an unventilated crawlspace (or closing vents after the crawlspace dries out following construction) is the best option in homes using proper moisture control and exterior drainage techniques.90005 90004 If you have or will have an unventilated crawlspace, the best approach is to seal and insulate the foundation walls rather than the floor between the crawlspace and the house. This strategy has the advantage of keeping piping and ductwork within the conditioned volume of the house so these building components do not require insulation for energy efficiency or protection against freezing. The downside of this strategy is that rodents, pests, or water can damage the insulation and the crawlspace must be built airtight and the air barrier maintained.It’s best to locate the access door to the crawlspace inside the home through the subfloor unless you build and maintain an airtight, insulated access door in the perimeter wall. 90005 90004 Cold concrete slabs can be a source of discomfort in a home. An insulated slab is easier to heat, and placing the mass of the slab within your home’s thermal envelope helps moderate indoor temperatures.90005 90004 Insulating a slab in an existing home can be expensive and disruptive, but if the slab in your home is cold it is possible to dig around the perimeter of the house and install insulation, usually foam board. In most parts of the United States, insulating the exterior edge of a slab can reduce heating bills by 10% to 20%. 90005 90004 Installing slab insulation during the construction process is more straightforward. Slab insulation, typically foam board, is installed either directly against the exterior of the slab and footing before backfilling or under the slab and along the inside of the stem wall of the foundation.Construction details vary widely, so it’s best to consult a building professional in your area. Building America’s climate-specific publications also have useful construction details for different climate zones. 90005 90004 Termites can tunnel undetected through exterior slab insulation to gain access to the wood framing in a home’s walls. As a result, some insurance companies will not guarantee homes with slab insulation against termites. Building codes in several southern U.S. states prohibit installing foam insulation in contact with the ground.Slab foundations with interior insulation provide more termite resistance, but some builders in the southeastern United States have even reported termite infestations through foam insulation on contained slabs. 90005 .90000 roof insulation | Real Homes 90001 90002 When many old houses were built, there was minimal insulation and little thought given to heat escaping upwards through the roof. Often all that stood between the occupants and the elements was a lath and plaster ceiling and the roof covering itself. Even now, many roof spaces that have been insulated have insufficient or poorly performing insulation that has slumped over time, or has been disturbed by tradespeople. 90003 90002 When insulating a house, the loft is usually the best place to start, as it is easy to do yet around a quarter of the heat in an uninsulated house is lost through the roof.90003 90006 How to insulate a loft 90007 90002 If you intend to use the loft for storage, then the most cost-effective solution is a ‘cold’ roof, where the insulation is laid on top of the ceilings of the rooms below. This is usually done by laying quilts or batts of insulation between and over the joists. 90003 90002 Usually, several layers of material will be required to achieve the necessary thermal performance with each layer laid at right angles to the last; any gaps between can be packed with loose-fill cellulose fibre.90003 90002 All pipes in the loft space must be insulated too. The layer of insulation should continue over water tanks but do not insulate directly underneath — warmth from the rooms below can help prevent freezing. 90003 90002 Continue the insulation right to the edge of the ceilings but do not allow it to block the eaves ‘ventilation. Ventilation is vital to ensure the necessary air movement to prevent condensation from water vapour, as this can lead to decay of the structural timbers. 90003 90002 You must also avoid laying insulation over recessed light fittings or cables in the loft space that may overheat.90003 90002 Before any work begins, the condition of the roof itself should be assessed and any leaks, damp problems or structural issues addressed. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90023 The ideal time to install insulation is when re-roofing, although above-rafter insulation raises the height of the roof, which will alter its appearance 90024 90003 90002 (Image credit: Roger Hunt) 90003 90006 Insulation for loft conversions 90007 90030 More from Period Living 90031 90002 90003 90002 (Image credit: Period Living) 90003 90002 Get the best period home inspiration, ideas and advice straight to your door every month with a subscription to 90023 Period Living 90024 magazine 90003 90002 If you want to convert the loft into living space, as perhaps a home office, guest room or master suite, you will need a ‘warm’ roof, where the roof itself is insulated.90003 90002 There are a number of options as to where the insulation can be placed. The ideal time to install insulation is when re-roofing, as fitting insulation above the rafters is the best technical solution. The downside of above-rafter insulation is that it raises the height of the roof and may have aesthetic consequences. 90003 90002 Where above-rafter insulation is not possible, the alternative is to insulate between or below the rafters, or a combination of both. A key consideration is headroom, as insulation added below the rafters naturally lowers ceiling heights.90003 90002 In older buildings, where attic space already exists, installing insulation is likely to mean the loss of historic plasterwork, which is not always appropriate, especially if the building is listed. 90003 90002 Whatever form the insulation takes, it is vital that there is an air gap of at least 5cm between the face of the insulation and the roof covering. To avoid condensation problems, this space must be well ventilated so vents may need to be installed in the roof and at the eaves and ridge.90003 90002 Quilt, batt and board types of insulation, or a combination, can all be appropriate but boards need to be cut accurately so there are no spaces around the edges. Insulation on its own does not necessarily provide an airtight solution that will stop draughts and heat loss, so it is vital that all joints overlap or are taped. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90023 Attic spaces can make stunning bedrooms, particularly if you insulate between the rafters and leave them exposed 90024 90003 90002 (Image credit: Brent Darby) 90003 90006 Which type of insulation? 90007 90002 When choosing insulation think about each material’s compatibility with the building, its thermal performance, acoustic properties, ease of use, cost and what it’s made of.90003 90002 Some materials are thin and highly insulating so are ideal where space is limited; others are cheaper but a greater thickness is required to achieve the equivalent level of thermal performance. 90003 90002 Permeable insulation works well with old buildings that ‘breathe’. Suitable insulation includes natural fibre-based products made of sheep’s wool or hemp, as well as mineral wools. 90003 90002 The other option is loose fill or blown insulation. This can take various forms but the most common are mineral wool or cellulose fibre produced from recycled newspaper.Loose fill has the advantage that it fills all the gaps but it can be blown around by air movement within very draughty lofts and so becomes uneven. 90003 90002 Rigid insulation boards can be hard to cut exactly to fit into the gaps between joists so are generally not recommended, but if are used must fit tightly together. 90003 90002 To help with comparisons, the thermal conductivity of a material is given as its lambda or K-value. The lower the K, the better the product will hold in heat. 90003 90006 Upgrading existing roof insulation 90007 90002 The amount of insulation installed in the lofts of new buildings has steadily increased over the past half century, from about 25mm in the 1960s to 270mm today.Although the building regulations do not retrospectively apply to old buildings, it makes sense to consider topping up existing insulation to a greater thickness. 90003 90002 Where existing insulation is in a poor condition (for example, it has lost its effectiveness where compressed) or badly fitted, complete replacement is normally advisable. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90023 When installing rigid insulation boards, it is crucial that they fit tightly together, and there are no gaps in between 90024 90003 90002 (Image credit: Roger Hunt) 90003 90006 Natural insulation materials 90007 90002 Natural materials are recommended for older homes as they are more breathable than many manmade insulations, are usually safer to work with and have a reduced environmental impact.90003 90092 90093 Sheep’s wool insulation provides a market for unwanted fleeces. Typical K value 0.038 W / mK. 90094 90093 Hemp quilts such as Isonat combine hemp and recycled cotton. Typical K value 0.039W / mK. Hemp is a great eco plant as it is fast-growing and locks up vast quantities of carbon dioxide. 90094 90093 Wood-wool insulation is made almost entirely from waste wood products. It is stiffer than hemp quilt or sheep’s wool, making it more suitable for certain applications. Typical K value 0.038 W / mK. 90094 90093 Recycled newspaper fibres such as Warmcel have a shorter lifespan than most insulation quilts but are much more economical and are often used in large loft spaces. Typical K value 0.035W / mK. 90094 90101 90002 90003 90002 90023 Sheep’s wool insulation, such as this from 90024 90023 Thermafleece 90024 90023, is installed in exactly the same way as mineral wool, but as it is a natural product, it is more environmentally friendly and does not cause skin irritation 90024 90003 90002 (Image credit: Thermafleece) 90003 90006 Roof insulation top tips 90007 90092 90093 90118 Watch out for wildlife: 90119 check the roof space for bats and nesting birds.When a protected species is present you will need to abide by the law and may have to modify how or when you undertake work. 90094 90093 90118 Wear protection: 90119 wear a mask, gloves and protective clothing. Loft spaces are frequently dirty and some insulation materials are an irritant to the skin, eyes and respiratory tract. 90094 90093 90118 Steady yourself: 90119 take care when working in roof spaces. Always stand or kneel on the joists rather than the ceiling, as one wrong footing and you could fall through the roof.90094 90093 90118 Do not pack it in: 90119 squashing insulation to fit the space seriously compromises its effectiveness. Also avoid pushing the insulation into the eaves, to keep ventilation paths at the edge of the roof well aired and roof timbers dry. 90094 90093 90118 Do not upset electrics: 90119 do not lay insulation material over electrical cables because of the risk of overheating. Where this is impossible, ensure cables are in good condition and, if necessary, have them inspected by an electrician.90094 90093 90118 Do not use the wrong materials: 90119 do not use spray foam insulation on the underside of roofs. It can trap moisture around the timber, stops tiles or slates being reused in the future and prevents inspection of the underside of the roof. 90094 90101 90002 90003 90002 90023 Warmcel 90024 90023 cellulose insulation, made from recycled newspaper fibres, is ideal for large large loft spaces 90024 90003 90002 (Image credit: Excel Industries) 90003 90006 Avoiding draughts caused by downlights 90007 90002 Anything that penetrates a ceiling results in air leakage, draughts and the passage of moisture into the space above.For these reasons, recessed downlights are particularly problematic and present the added difficulty that insulation must not be laid around or over them because of the risk of fire from overheating. 90003 90092 90093 One solution is to fit ‘fire hoods’ over downlights, which are widely available from electrical suppliers and are designed to help prevent the spread of fire and air leakage. 90094 90093 Another is to replace bulbs with modern LEDs which do not emit any significant heat and can be safely boxed and insulated on top.90094 90101 90002 90003 90002 90023 Cold spots are commonly found around windows and door openings and on the sloping edges of ceilings, which can result in condensation and mould if ventilation is not considered 90024 90003 90006 Dealing with condensation in a loft or roof space 90007 90002 If humid indoor air finds its way through any gaps in insulated ceilings, it can condense on cold surfaces hidden behind, resulting in damp and timber decay. 90003 90002 Condensation can also affect areas where the insulation is thin or missing altogether.Common ‘cold’ spots are found around windows and door openings and on the sloping edges of ceilings in bedrooms and bathrooms, which are prone to develop patches of black mould. To prevent this, the insulation must be continuous without any gaps. 90003 90002 The most obvious way to minimise condensation, however, is to reduce the amount of moist air generated. Fit extractor fans in en-suite bathrooms in lofts, and improve controllable ventilation by fitting trickle vents to any windows, or simply opening the windows after showering or bathing.90003 90006 More on insulation: 90007 .90000 Insulation of the attic from the inside with your own hands (+ photo) | With Your Hands 90001 90002 To ensure that the attic room is comfortable and cozy, you need to take care of its insulation. To do this, you need to choose and carefully mount the insulation, but before — remove the old one. 90003 90002 The old thermal insulation definitely served its purpose. 90003 90002 To clean the walls of 70 mineral wool is not particularly pleasant, primarily because it is often lined with aluminum foil or other coatings.90003 90002 But it is necessary to do this — only in a respirator, which protects from fibrous dust. 90003 90002 Old insulation for export should be packed in special bags of non-woven material. It is worth noting that with modern mineral fibers in slabs and rolls it is much more convenient to work. 90003 90012 90002 Reference by topic: Mansard with his own hands (photo) — master class for decoration 90003 90012 90016 Warming of the attic from the inside with your own hands 90017 90018 90002 1.Plates of old insulation were cut with a sharp knife along all the seams, and then with strips. 90003 90002 2.So plates are easier to break and then take out. 90003 90002 3. The rim was removed from the rafters using a crowbar. At the same time, you should immediately pull out the nails. 90003 90002 4. The old mineral wool was first packed in small garbage bags. Do it better in a respirator and gloves. 90003 90002 5. For a new insulation, it is necessary to measure the exact distances between the rafters in each span.90003 90002 6. Important: a narrow gap between the pediment wall and the last rafters must also be carefully filled with a heater. 90003 90002 7. Plates should always be cut across the direction of the roll. The fact is that in this direction the material is more dense. It is necessary to cut the sealant to the size of the span between the rafters plus 10 mm, so that the insulation is securely clamped. 90003 90002 8. The strips of heat-insulating material were inserted into the flights between the rafters, beginning with the perforated run.It is necessary to achieve continuous closing of the joints of the plates with each other, as well as with rafters and purlins. 90003 90002 9. In the field of the skate left an old crate under the cross-bars and installed a heater over it. 90003 90002 10.This allowed to lay the heater across to the crate and not to perform heat insulation to the very ridge of the roof. 90003 90002 11. After the thermal insulation material was laid, a vapor barrier film was put over it and attached to the rafters with a stapler.The film should be slightly sagged, so that there are no tears in the points of fastening by staples under strong temperature fluctuations. 90003 90002 12. In this case, the film reaches the visible underlay run and is also attached to it using a stapler. 90003 90002 13. On the gable walls, the film was cut off with an allowance of 10 cm, this is enough to glue it without tension. 90003 90002 14. Adhesive tightly fixed the film to all adjacent surfaces. 90003 90002 15. To fix the vapor barrier film to the gable walls, a strip of glue was squeezed onto the wall.The film with the pressure was pressed against the glue and along the entire length was rubbed with pressure so that there was an adhesive layer of thickness 1-2 mm from the outside. The release will prevent the film from stretching. 90003 90002 16. All the joints of the film and the attachment points with the stapler were gently sealed with adhesive tape. 90003 90002 17. All holes in the film, for example, for the cable, were sealed with flexible adhesive tape. 90003 90002 In the so-called sealed layer is a vapor-and-oil film, adhesive tape for film joints and glue for fixation to the floor and gable wall.It is important: each manufacturer adapts the adhesive to a specific film, therefore, taking into account the warranty condition, it is worth using only products of the same manufacturer. For fixing, you will only need a manual stapler (for corners) or a hammer stapler (for surfaces). 90003 90002 18. On the direct suspensions later will be reinforced bearing profiles for gypsum fiber boards, the hangers compensate for the uneven arrangement of the rafters. They are fixed at an interval of 50 cm, so the plate (100 x 150 cm) will be held on three profiles, and the support for the plate joints will be located in the middle.90003 90002 19. Both sides of the suspension were bent. Be careful, they have sharp edges! 90003 90002 20. Ceiling profiles sawed to size. For this work, protective gloves and a mask are mandatory! 90003 90002 21. Profiles from above and from below were attached to plumb bobs. 90003 90002 22. After that, the master neatly bent the sides of the suspension back. 90003 90002 23. A fixed rake will help when installing carrier profiles in one line. At regular intervals, the line should be monitored in both directions.90003 90002 With interdigital thermal insulation rafters become bridges of cold. Mineral wool thickness 5 cm, laid on top of the rafters in the transverse direction, can significantly improve the overall level of thermal insulation. Straight hangers with bent sides, designed for installation of gypsum boards, serve 8 in this case for fixing the insulation sheets. The thermal insulation material is simply put on the suspenders so that they pierce the canvas. A knife should not be cut to prevent damage to the film.The metal profile is screwed to the suspensions, whilst clamping the insulation. Under-thermal insulation creates a reliable insulation layer without cold bridges. 90003 90012 90002 See also: Warming of a private house outside — from the foundation to the roof 90003 90012 90016 Tightness of dormer windows 90017 90018 90002 On the slopes of windows located in the plane of the roof, cold bridges often arise, and sooner or later it is worth waiting for the appearance of mold. The reason for this is the insufficiently sealed connection of the vapor barrier film to the windows.Special vapor-proof aprons for windows allow you to make the connection yourself, but here you need to be careful. 90003 90002 24. The vapor-proof apron is made of a synthetic film, one edge of which is pressed into the groove along the perimeter of the window, creating a sealed connection. The second edge is later connected to the vapor barrier layer of the roof surface using the supplied adhesive tape. 90003 90002 25. A special core, included in the kit, gently pushed the reinforced edge of the apron film into the groove of the window so that the film entered the groove tightly and smoothly.The corners of the reinforced edge must be located in the corners of the window slot. 90003 90002 26. At points with red markings (four in each corner of the window), carefully screw in the screws from the kit. Now the vapor-proof apron is hermetically connected to the window and fixed. 90003 90002 27. Due to the large length of the window (225 cm), the vapor-proof apron must be extended. To do this, cut off at a right angle already installed on the upper side of the apron. Then set the bottom of the apron.Extension inserts were glued with adhesive tape exactly in the middle and pressed the reinforced edge of the film into the groove of the window. 90003 90002 28. As a result, you will get a tight connection around the perimeter of the window. 90003 90016 Work with a heater 90017 90018 90002 To install the insulation is a lot (no tools are needed, the right knife for cutting heat-insulating materials will be very useful, which you can easily cut thick plates — the knife does not work for this.) The rule (150 cm) will help to make the cuts in a straight line. a ruler, a pencil and a respirator, which protects from fibrous dust. 90003 90002 29. Then, the vapor-proof apron was glued without tension and gaps to the sealed film. 90003 90002 30. Bearing profiles for sheathing were installed a few millimeters away from the future slopes of the window. 90003 90002 31. When plastering the attic with gypsum fiber boards, one should start from the pediment wall. Measured the slope of the roof, moved to plates and sawed them with a jig saw.90003 90002 32. The old layer of plates is saved. It is screwed to the crate, the location of which can be detected by tapping. New plates should be simply screwed on old. In this case, you will need screws 45 mm in length. 90003 90002 33. With the pediment wall you can do it quickly. Putty is performed only after all the plates have been installed, including the bevels. 90003 90002 34. The sawing of slabs in a straight line was done with a special knife for gypsum fiber boards, which has a special blade with a hook.90003 90012 90002 See also: The attic with your own hands — the device, insulation, interior decoration in the house 90003 90012 90016 GVL plates 90017 90018 90002 With gypsum fiber boards measuring 100 x 150 cm, you can work without an assistant. They are made without a cardboard shell, the stability is attached to the fibers in the gypsum board. Therefore, they are heavier, slightly stronger and have higher sound insulation properties. 90003 90002 The width of the seams should be 5-7 mm.For this, two links of the scale must be inserted between the plates. It is best to make two «struts» from the old broken line and keep or lay them between the plates during installation — this will save you from unnecessary fuss. 90003 90016 Sliding seam 90017 90018 90002 (Prevent cracking of putty in the seams, before gluing the beads onto the gable a special or usual scotch.) When after plating you zashpatlyuete the surface to the adhesive tape (the protruding tape is then cut off with a wallpaper knife), the adhesive tape will prevent hard contact with the pediment.90003 90002 35. It is important: on the fibrous plates it is necessary to make an incision several times. 90003 90002 36. Then strong plates can easily be broken on a straight edge (it is best on a stack of slabs). 90003 90002 37. The edges of the fault were treated with a so-called edge plane for gypsum board, so that later the joints of the plates could be gently patted. 90003 90002 38. Sheathing with whole slabs is better to start from above, then to perform a painstaking cut at a convenient eye level.The assistant is very useful to you for leveling the plates horizontally and screwing. 90003 90002 39. With a screwdriver screwed self-tapping screws to such a depth that they were located just below the surface of the plate — this is enough for a neat putty. 90003 90002 40. Gypsum «burrs», formed during screwing, were brought down with a spatula. 90003 90016 Remove stickers from windows 90017 90018 90002 We admit that this seems like a simple task, but not everything is so simple.Stickers should be removed as soon as possible after installing the dormer windows. Long sun exposure can literally «burn» the glue on the wrong side of the sticker in the glass, and then it can be partially removed only using chemicals. Remains of the adhesive can be wiped off or removed using a small amount of acetone. 90003 90002 41. The protruding heads of the screws were tightened by hand. For plasterboard spatulas for this, there is a special nozzle in the handle. 90003 90002 42.The mass for filling the joints was diluted with water. It was then mixed until a paste-like consistency resembled a dough. 90003 90002 43. With the help of a trowel, the seams were deeply filled with mass. 90003 90002 44. After drying, the seams were sanded with a grinding net. Attention: the grinding paper quickly clogs from contact with the gypsum. 90003 90002 45. The second finishing layer of filler will fill in grooves and scratches. 90003 90002 46. ​​The joints should also be sealed, the adhesive tape will prevent direct contact with the pediment.90003 90002 47. Next, they took up electrical wiring. At first, its location was determined. A hole for the cable was cut with a milling cutter for round holes. The unwound harness was pulled through the hole. 90003 90002 48. The ceiling plate was screwed to the supporting structure. On the side of both bevels left a seam for putty with a width of 5-7 mm. 90003 90012 90002 See also: Internal insulation of the roof slopes for the attic device-the order of the layers 90003 90012 90158 Insulation of the attic from the inside with your own hands — photo 90017 90018 90161 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90175 90176 TOOLS FOR MASTERS AND MASTERS, AND HOME GOODS ARE VERY CHEAP.FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS. 90177 90178 90179 Below other entries on the topic «How to make your own hands — a householder!» 90180 90181 Cabinets in the attic with their own hands Attic cabinets Thanks to the walls made by … 90182 90181 Attic in the patchwork technique with their own hands (master class + photo) Attic in the attic — unusual … 90182 90181 Ventilation in the attic bathroom with your own hands How to make ventilation in the bathroom… 90182 90181 Warming of the floors of the house How to insulate floors in the house … 90182 90181 Wardrobe for the attic with your own hands (photo) How to make a wardrobe in the attic … 90182 90181 Sauna in the attic with their own hands — master class How to place a sauna in the attic … 90182 90181 Wardrobe for the attic with your own hands — photos, drawings and assembly order How to make your own mansard … 90012 90195 Subscribe to updates in our groups and share.90180 90195 Let’s be friends! 90180 90182.90000 Staying Warm In Your Log Cabin: How To Insulate Your Log Cabin 90001 90002 Logs are naturally great insulators and therefore my log cabin will automatically be energy efficient and my bills will be reduced, right? 90003 WRONG 90004. 90005 90002 I hear many people making this assumption, but the fact is, up to 70% of your heat will be lost through the roof and the floor. 90005 90002 Couple this with a log home that has been built with logs that are too thin in diameter, or a cabin that has not been built well, you could be well on your way to having a very energy inefficient home.The very opposite of what you set out to achieve I’m sure! 90005 90002 Make certain you do not make this mistake by ensuring you spend time during the planning and design stage and think about how to insulate your log cabin and make it as energy efficient as possible. 90005 90002 Read on to find out more about the process of insulating your log home, materials to use and step by step instructions of the process. 90005 90014 Why insulate your log cabin home? 90015 90002 90005 90002 To understand more about how energy efficient a log cabin is, you need to understand some terminology.90005 90002 90003 90022 R-Value 90023 90004 90005 90026 90002 The R-Value is the measurement of resistance of heat flow through a certain thickness of material. The higher the R-value the better because the more thermal resistance the material has and therefore, the better insulator it makes. 90005 90029 90002 90003 90022 U-Value 90023 90004 90005 90026 90002 The U-Value measures the heat loss in Watts through a material so therefore the lower the U Value the better as less heat is lost.U values ​​take into account more factors and are therefore more accurate in determining a materials insulating ability. 90005 90029 90002 These values ​​are purely dependant on the type of wood you use for your logs and the thickness of the logs. Typically the R-Value for wood ranges from 1.41 per inch for softwoods and 0.71 per inch for hardwoods. This means a log wall built with a 6-inch softwood logs has an R-value of just over 8. 90005 90002 Compare this to a typical wood stud wall with 3.5 inches of insulation, sheathing, and wallboard which has an R-value of around 14 you may be surprised to see that comparatively log walls are less energy efficient. 90005 90002 However, because of the properties of logs and their ability to store heat, they do not tend to feel as cold as their given R-value as they can release heat back into the house as it cools — an advantage log homes have over their competitor conventional homes. 90005 90014 Log cabin walls 90015 90002 90005.